Download the leaflet with all the climbing routes
LOCATION AND ACCESS
BASE
We can access the N-332 or the AP-7. If you take the motorway, take exit 64 Altea/Calp to continue on the N-332 towards Calp/ Valencia. We will cross the characteristic tunnels that pierce the walls of the Barranco del Mascarat and continue about 600 meters in the direction of Calp, until we find on our right the entrance to the urbanization Maryvilla, where we can leave our vehicle.
POSITION 38°38’22”N - 0° 0’49”E
APPROACH
Walk about 600 meters along the side of the road until you reach the tunnels. To access the bottom of the ravine we must perform a rappel of 50 meters from the railing of the bridge.
DESCEND
To descend from the Superior Needle we will follow the grassy turn in a south direction, signposted with some stone landmark. After a short crossing with third degree steps, we will continue descending slightly until we reach the train track, next to the road. We will continue towards Calp through the tunnels, until we find the urbanization Maryvilla. 25 minutes.
From the end of the Lower Needle we will continue cresting towards the remains of a tower. From here, a path with several handrails will deposit us in the urbanization Maryvilla. 10 minutes.
THE ENVIRONMENT
The environment a good alternative to climbing is hiking. The climb to the Sierra de Bernia from Altea La Vella is a magnificent excursion in which we can visit a fort of the 16th century and enjoy magnificent views of the Peñón de Ifach and the Bay of Altea. On the other hand, Altea is an example of the settlement of artisans and artists. In its old town, white and cobbled streets, we can enjoy a quiet and romantic atmosphere. Next to the great square of the parish church we will find exquisite restaurants and good craft shops and art workshops.
In Altea there are several natural places such as La Olla Beach, Cap Negret, La Roda and Cap Blanch. Among the most important coves are the barreta, the solsida and the galley. We can also enjoy the varied offer of nautical sports offered by its two sports ports. Altea has the “Navarro Ramón” Museum located at the House of Culture and the Ethnic Museum of Music.
A typical dish of this beautiful enclave, shared with other Alicante locations are the Morralla farinetes, a creamy broth based on Morralla. On the other hand we will highlight the garrofeta salad (dried bonito hue) and the bean and salting salad. As for the rice, we will mention as a specialty Alteana the Arròs Amb Seba and Bull (with onion and dry tuna bucion) and the very tasty rice with vogue.
ROUTES
Upper needle
Route 01 - Las Tetas de mi Novia
140 m, 6b+
Good route that begins with the gray plates located to the left of a pillar and that ascends in search of the characteristic orange somital dihedral. The equipment, old, requires making good use of the floating material. The last pitch offers an elegant climb on a marked dihedral that is totally “clean”.
Later, a starting variant to the right of the characteristic dihedral was equipped with a bolt, with difficulties of 5+.
150 m, 6a
Nice route with characteristics similar to the previous one in terms of the environment and the rock, but with a more affordable grade. The first two pitches are equipped with bolt bolts, as are all the meetings. The fourth pitch of the original route runs through a small fissure a few meters to the right of the characteristic dihedral of Las tetas de mi novia.
250 m, 5+
A classic. It was the first open route on this needle. Its obvious layout and affordable grade make it one of the most repeated in the area. Elegant climbing with a good atmosphere.
250 m, 6a
One of the best routes of this needle and possibly the most repeated. Very vertical environment on quality rock. An inscription with the opening date indicates the beginning.
250 m, 6a/A1
Quite an unknown route that has very few repetitions. The rock in general is good and has an obvious layout and a good atmosphere.
225 m, 6a/A2
Interesting route characterized by overcoming the magnificent orange dihedral in the center of the wall. This pitch, traditionally climbed in artificial (A2), can be overcome in free with difficulties of 7a.
Route 07 - El Vuelo del Águila
260 m, 6a+
Quality route that runs along the characteristic spur. The 4th pitch offers an alternative to the left of the 6b spur. Meetings recently retrofitted with one or two parabolts. Quality rock in general. Recommendable.
Lower needle
220 m, 6a+
Clear route that combines fissures and dihedrals, with one of the best self-protection lengths in the area. The route begins on a ledge located 15 meters below the bridge, so we will have to do a small rappel from its west railing. Highly recommended. No review.
200 m, 6b
The first route opened in the Lower Needle. Very interesting route on quality rock. The 4th length, without reviewing, can be surpassed in A0 with the help of some impediment. Highly recommended.
250 m, 6c+/A2
Modern route that attacks the wall from the bottom of the ravine, combining sections fully equipped with bolt bolts, with others unequipped. The climb is mainly done free, except for the first pitch, where we will have to place some artificial pieces. Very interesting.
180 m, 6a
Interesting route that runs through obvious fissures and dihedrals. Quality rock in general. Recommendable.
135 m, 6a+
This was the first route that the lower spire climbed from its base. The route runs through slabs of good rock, equipped with old nails. The route deposits us in the R3 of Botella-Montesinos. Recommendable.